These feet are made for walking

There's nothing comparable to walking the fragrant hills of Provence.

Walking is for me, the best way to see and learn about your surrounds, whether is it the bush, city streets – or the narrow sentiers (walking tracks) that criss-cross the fragrant hills of Provence.

One of the first things I do when I arrive at a place – anywhere new, really – is walk around and familiarise myself in the sights, scents, sounds of it.

But wandering through the countryside is a serious business for the French, particularly those in the south who have been walking the hillsides for centuries. Known as ‘La Randonnée’ – probably the best English translation is the very British ‘Rambling’ – it is akin to hiking.

Wandering beside olive groves.

In the Var, there are numerous paths throughout the region and our local council in Les Arcs-sur-Argens is planning to extend the tracks from our village into the Massif des Maures to the south as well as across the hills to our neighbouring villages.

One of my favourite walks – which I prefer to do in cooler weather because of the summer fire danger – is to the top of the Forêt des Arcs, located in the Maures.

The goal is to reach the highest point, where you have a treat in store – not only the expansive view across central Var, but because of its links to pre-historic times with its rocks, placed in strategic positions by former inhabitants.

Tracks take you deep into the Gorges du Verdon.

Known as Terriers, Menhirs or Dolmen, these sharp, cylindrical rocks are found often arranged on end in strange circles reminiscent of tiny Stonehenges, or lying one across two uprights like a door jamb.

The tourist office in Les Arcs has maps of the area and you can choose to take the main balade (walk) of 14 kilometres or the short one of 9.2km. With any of these longer walks it is essential that you take in enough water and probably something to eat to sustain you.

The guide also explains the coloured markings and symbols painted on rocks or attached to trees as you ascend, marking your way – yellow and white for the ‘Promenade and Randonnée’ here. There are other colours for regional and national 'grande randonnées'.

Starting by the Argens River, the track slowly rises through the forest, past ancient cork oaks, whose bark has once been used for wine corks by the local vintners. It also passes some of the early mines, now abandoned, where they once extracted precious minerals from deep within the Maures.

There are two other paths that I have not yet investigated and plan to ‘one of these days’.

They are the Grande Randonnée up and over what we call the ‘Red Rock’ but is locally known as ‘Roquebrune’.  The rich red earth of the rock and the way it glows in the setting sun remind us so much of central Australia. We have already mapped our start – and are looking forward to ending up at one of our favourite restaurants on the other side at Roquebrune-sur-Argens.

Sometimes you find other 'randonneurs' on your walk!

The second is more a series of paths, deep within the Canyon of Verdon in northern Var. I have climbed down to the river bed from the cliffs above, but have not yet taken one of the trails that lead both up and downstream – as well as up the other side of the canyon!

Finally there is our own familiar sentier that links Les Arcs with the neighbouring village of Taradeau. It is strenuous enough so you know you have done some exercise, but not so far that you wind up exhausted.  And it’s always good to be able to stop for a refreshing drink in the main street of Taradeau before the homeward journey (on foot or by bus).

 

 

 

Empty Attics

The Vide Grenier at les Arcs-sur-Argens.

The summer months in Les Arcs-sur-Argens are hot, dry and dusty, but the warm summer nights with music and dancing in the street make the days worthwhile.

Another way to counteract the heat is just to ignore it.

Musical instruments to haggle over.

One way to do that is to get absorbed in something else – like fossicking through other people’s ‘stuff’.

So once a month we walk out to the edge of town – near the ‘Rond point deux chypres’  - the roundabout on the way to ‘La chapelle de Sainte Roseline’  (which has more than two cypress pines, by the way) – where the huge Vide grenier is held.

Now a ‘Vide Grenier’ – literally ‘empty attic’ is like a car boot sale. People figuratively clean out their attics and unwanted, but still saleable good are spread out on rugs, tables, tarpaulins and sold for incredibly cheap prices.

It’s the best way to furnish a house.

It’s also the best way to over-fill your suitcase for the journey home.

For me, it is almost impossible to resist buying something – and I have to be very disciplined not to buy everything that takes my eye – whether I have a use for it or not.

Shoes anyone?

Most towns throughout France stage Vide greniers from time-to-time and if you have a chance to go to one, please do.

You can browse for hours.

Sometimes you will find real treasures. Other times you will come home with an item and wonder what on earth you were thinking.

I imagine that feeling is the same the world over.

The Vide Grenier at Les Arcs-sur-Argens is dotted around an enormous paddock with rows and rows of good laid out for browsing.

It's located at the roundabout - the junction of roads that take you to Draguignan in the north, south to the N7 (route nationale) and east (past Sainte-Roseline) towards La Motte.

It gets full of people and cars very early so we tend to walk out from the town - a kilometre or so, but remember to bring large shopping bags for the inevitable purchases!



Something to decorate the house and garden.

It is hot and dusty and noisy and busy and happy. There are places where you can chill out with food, a coffee or an ice cream in the dappled shade of the native pines.

The view is amazing towards the blue outlines of Les Maures to the south. The traders are fun, cheeky and expect you to haggle.


Take some sun cream, a large hat, your camera, a bottle of water and a sense of humour.

Pumpkins - for decoration only.

You can make the rounds again and again as new wares come out to replace those bought earlier in the day. But by late afternoon, the clouds of dust gather at the bottom of the paddock as cars make their way back home.

It’s time to gather up that lamp, the outrageous pair of shoes, that funny little figurine and broken-but-pretty musical instrument you have just bought, and make your way back into town.

Once you have showered off the dust and admired your purchases (or planned who you might pass them on to), it’s time for your evening apéro.

The shadows lengthen and the town centre fills up with diners, most of whom are and satisfied shoppers and sellers, a band begins to play in the kiosk and you realise that despite the summer heat, you’ve just had a magnificent day.

Rows and rows of goods laid out for you to bargain for.