Traditional costumes

This ensemble dates back to 1780.

I have always loved fabrics, sewing and needlecraft - and the idea of countries having a national costume.

I remember at primary school trying to design a 'wattle' costume - something like Snugglepot and Cuddlepie (without the bare bottoms) as an Australian national costume.

So I was delighted to find, when I visited Grasse this year, that the Musee Provencale du Costume et Bijou was exhibiting a collection of  'costumes provencaux'.

The clothes and jewellery are part of a collection of Arlesienne costumes by Magali and Odile Pascal and show the incredibly detailed and beautifully sewn and embroidered clothes once worn by the women who lived in the Arles region of the Midi.

These distinctly southern women were frequently painted by Vincent van Gogh.

The large circular straw hat accompanies this display.

The costumes across the south of France are similar in style, with colours, embroidery patterns and materials varying from region to region and from the peasants to the artisans to the well-off.

I have inherited a beautiful, traditionally-dressed doll in Mentonnais costume from my belle-mere - mother-in-law - who was born in Menton.

The doll's skirt is striped in red and white, her black shawl is beautifully embroidered, as is her apron and she wears the wide-brimmed hat of most Provencale women of the time.

These hats could be clipped to the women's waistbands after work finished for the day and the sun went down.

The skirts were often heavy and quilted - nice for winter - but I don't know how the women managed in summertime.

The blouse would be topped by a shawl or a shawl-like collar, and a long apron tied around their waist.

Interestingly, the Arlesienne women often wore elaborately tied ribbons in their hair, winding the wide, embroidered or patterned material around their hair to protect and decorate it.

The hair is drawn up into a knot and the ribbon secured with a pin.

Headwear was always worn and the hair pinned up. Not only did it keep the hair clean and tidy (there was no washing it every day), but it also was part of the woman's modesty.

I regret not buying some of the beautiful ribbons I saw on display during the Medieval Festival in Les Arcs.

The exhibition was fascinating.

The late Helene Costa - of Fragonard fame - had a passion for collecting traditional costumes and jewellery of Provence and her collection is generally the one on view at the museum.

I would encourage anyone visiting Grasse to take the time to enjoy whatever exhibition is on.

It is a fascinating insight into the past, while helping to preserve the distinctive heritage of the region's national dress.

Walking to Taradeau

I have this belief that you can never really know a place until you have walked it.


The panoramic view back towards Les Arcs with vineyards in the foreground.

It is why I prefer to explore cities - and the countryside - on foot. With the right shoes and enough water, I can walk all day.


So when we were told that you could walk to Taradeau from Les Arcs-sur-Argens, we decided to give it a go.

There are various routes, but the most interesting is along access tracks through vineyards, which in turn become fire tracks and later stony footpaths used by randonneurs - bushwalkers - or mountain bike riders.

An unmade road leads off the Chemin de Beauveser at the western edge of Les Arcs. There are boom gates here which can be lowered in times of high fire danger or forest fires.



About halfway along the walk en route to Taradeau.

The road meanders around the side of the hill with its steep cuttings and houses tucked away in the bush, but it soon gives way to the region's vineyards.

Being a long walk with a tough, rocky climb at the end, I prefer to go in the milder autumn weather.

The blue shapes of the Maures mountains make up the southern horizon across the Argens Valley and in the distance you can see the pointed sugarloaf hill - with the Sainte Brigitte Chapelle on top - that marks the location of the town of Vidauban.

Vidauban with Ste Brigitte's Chapelle crowning the distinctive sugarloaf hill.

Further along the walk, you strike the high, limestone hills that shelter the village of Taradeau and this is where you need solid soles on your shoes to counter the stony track that winds steeply upwards.

My reward for the climb is taking a number of pauses 'for the view' - and it is a stunning view - well worth the walk just for that.

In autumn you not only have the changing colours of the vines, but their beautifully ordered rows which pattern the fields below in stripes of ochre red and pale green.



The tower and chapel at Taradeau.

The soil reminds me of the fabled 'terra rossa' of the Coonawarra region in South Australia. But here they grow Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre varieties for their excellent dry Cotes de Provence rosé wines - many of which are an incredibly pale pink.

Part way up the hill, the path divides and you have to choose whether you will take the left-hand fork that continues to wind around the hill to the distinctive tower and tiny chapel that can be seen for miles in silhouette and dominates the village below.

Unfortunately the tower, which has been privately owned, is in disrepair and sealed to the public, but the chapel is beautiful in its simplicity.

A panoramic view over the Argens valley from the summit.

From here, an extraordinarily steep sealed road hurtles you down into the village, where you can enjoy a coffee or lunch or a very welcome glass of something cold.

Of course you may prefer the right-hand fork in the road that will take you even higher, to an orientation table and cairn on the top of the highest peak.


From here you can sit back, relax, catch your breath and enjoy a panoramic view across the lush Argens plain, before either retracing your steps to Taradeau (where you can catch a bus back to Les Arcs) or, if you're up to it, retrace your steps  through the vineyards and bushland. At least from here, it's downhill all the way!